BSES HQ receives expedition field updates weekly so check back every Monday to see what has happened in the week gone by.

Monday, August 10

Land of the Midnight Sun

It is not often you get to see a sea otter pushing its velvety head through still waters, dark eyes watching you gingerly 12 feet from your boat, or perhaps a sea eagle soaring gracefully above, expertly catching thermals. But in Nuvsvåg, 250km north of the artic circle such Norwegian delights await anyone from the novice to seasoned sea paddler.

This once-in-a-lifetime experience came through a month long expedition with British Schools Exploring Society, a charity set up to provide 16 – 20 year olds with an opportunity for exploration and personal development. BSES prides itself on adventuring to remote places the average gap year candidate would unlikely reach. The leaders for this expedition were an impressive line up of highly experienced paddling and mountaineering coaches.

Nuvsvåg was our base-camp location, a small hamlet of 100 people perched on one of the countless fjords which interrupt the pristine coastline. A blink of the eye and one could be paddling in the Scottish Highlands, until closer inspection reveals the high mountain backdrop of the glacial plateau. There are a mere 17 children in the local school, and our local contact Oddvar Berne, and his effusive wife Anne Marie told us that migration of the younger generation is a growing problem. “It is a very sad day for us when we see the fish drying in the nets” she tells us, “this indicates the fishermen cannot get the fresh fish to the markets in Alta to sell”. She goes on “if they cannot do this, they must hang it until the autumn where the dried fish fetches a lower price; unemployment is a real problem for us here in Nuvsvåg”.

The expedition operates in small teams called Fires, as founder Surgeon Commander Murray Levick (Scott’s Antartic expedition 1911) believed this was an optimal number of people to converse around a fire. So with a group of 6 ‘Young Explorers’, myself and fellow leader Chris Heaney set off for a week of discovering what the Land of the Midnight Sun had to offer.

As Norway has relatively liberal attitudes towards wild camping, we were able to head out along the coastline with a l:50 000 map (sourced at Stanfords) and find a suitable camping spot when we were ready to get off the water. In July, there is still good run-off from the snow melt so fresh, [cold] drinking water was rarely a problem to source. What was more of a nuisance were the carnivorous insects whose favourite feed was clearly freshly salted man flesh, thankfully less present at the breezier camping spots.

We soon realised how the 24hr sunlight added flexibility to our journeying. We dodged stronger winds and unwanted tides by paddling early morning or through the night (night - being purely a theoretical concept which took some getting used to). Due to the high pressure system; we enjoyed a dramatic sun setting scene - cameras at the ready, only to witness the sun touching the watery horizon and then tracking majestically back up into the sky. It was a strange thing to set up camp in a shaded bay early evening, only for the sun to move into view and slowly warm the rocks as the night progressed.

Once we were out of the Nuvsvåg fjord we headed east towards neighbouring Oksfjordjen. This fjord was home to a school of porpoise who kept a regular fishing schedule of early morning and late evening, providing us with one of those rare moments in life where the natural environment is so breathtaking it is hard to take it in.

We carried some rudimentary fishing kit, and with a few false starts caught trout on a hand-line from the boat. We were warned by local fisherman that the catch in the area would easily take a sea boat under so took to fishing in pairs, so at least it could be captured on film as the boat was being taken down by a 50lb halibut. Sadly no such footage was made so we settled for a dinner of more manageable catch within moments of being caught. Mussels were another delight; similar in size to their UK counterparts and abundant at every beach we landed at. This proved a highlight as the group got quite well versed at subsidizing their ration packs.

We headed up Oksfjorden away from the small village towards more remote waters where the occasional summer house was the only sign of human life. Many people come to the area to fish during the summer months returning south as the long winter sets in. “You have to learn to be at peace with yourself” a local told us. “Some people come to live here because it is so beautiful, but then they cannot cope during the winter darkness”. During the dark months of 1944, when this part of the world was invaded, a handful of Lap people over-wintered in nearby caves. Although open and friendly, it is clear that the people of these parts are hardened to their environment and have a strong sense of survival. The weather especially, notorious for being fickle clearly puts those who get in its way to the test. There is a small obelisk in the church yard, family names listed of those lost at sea. Still waters were punctuated with clear storm damage, fishing nets cast high into shoreline trees.

We had a couple of nights at the far end of the fjord, carrying out some scientific research on behalf of the State of the Environment, a Norwegian government department. The science element of the expedition gave the group a chance to engage with the marine environment beyond being mere tourists. Additionally they were able to put something back into specific research projects. With the migration of the formidable king crab into the area, researchers are keen to gather some base data to investigate the longer term effect of this new visitor to the fjords.

A misty morning shrouded our return journey to base-camp, spotting more porpoise along the way. By way of a departure gesture, a white tailed sea eagle escorted us out of Oksfjorden. Unbelievably, these kings of the sky have a larger wingspan than their golden eagle counterparts. As we drew into the beach where we had started from the previous week, the group were unusually quiet and seemed loathed get off the water. This part of Norway had been described to us by a resident as absolute paradise and as our journey concluded we felt unable to argue with such a claim.

BSES run summer month long expeditions; departing to Svalbard in 2010 and Greenland in 2011. If you are a keen with some paddling experience, go to the BSES website at www.bses.org.uk to find out how you can get involved. Article written by Lucy Bound.

Week Three

On Monday August 3rd, the Fires set off on their second phase of activities. That means they’ll be away on expedition for a week – those that kayaked first will have a go in the mountains and vice-versa. More news after this...

In the meantime, you can read a preview of an article written by one of our leaders, Lucy Bound

Blog Entry

Written by: Man Mountain
Members: Izzy, Luke, Peter, Rachael, Ruth and Sam

We set off on our kayaking phase of the expedition and covered an impressive 8km in the first evening, surrounded by spectacular views of the glaciers around us. We arrived at our first campsite which we quickly christened “pebbly beach,” and tucked into the first of many ration pack meals. Some of us were huge fans, others not quite so keen. After a spot of unsuccessful fishing, we made a campfire on the edge of the beach, although some help from our leader Chris was needed, and a little help from a petrol bottle! Stuey the starfish also enjoyed the fire but luckily from a safe distance.
The following day we paddled around the headland to a rock pool site where we carried out some of the scientific work, which produced some interesting findings. We then completed a 3.5km open sea crossing which was challenging but everyone felt a great sense of accomplishment once completed, and spent the evening in the local village of Nuvsvag where we bought the much needed and loved Coca cola and ice cream!
Day three was by far the most demanding of days; as we had a very early start at 5.30 am, to go and retrieve the stove we had left behind at the rock pool where we had lunch the day before. We then had to paddle approximately 12km to the next camp, which has become known as “flea beach”; for its less than pleasant beach, and residing smell of rotting seaweed.
We then paddled on towards Oksfjord, and had to battle through force 5 winds, luckily nobody capsized but it was challenging and tiring. Later that evening Chris, Lucy and Peter saw a Sea Otter, which was quite exciting for them.
We saw a lot of wildlife on Tuesday, including several Porpoise, Sea Urchins, Trout and a White Tailed Eagle.
The last two days were spent by our fire paddling the considerable distance back to base camp in glorious sunshine, with another overnight camp at Nuvsvag, where we watched the Sunset. Overall we had a great week kayaking.

Rachael”cutter- upper” Wood couldn’t paddle for more than a mile without intercepting someone despite the groups best attempts at paddling as far away as possible. Izzy successfully cut off three people causing a threeway head on collision and due to Ruth and her lightness of paddle, a rather competitive and wet splash war ensued. A triple attack on Luke (Leek) for refusing to sing the group anthem “Reach” by S-Club 7 left his treasured beanie as good as gone to Davy Jones Locker. Sam (Stove Man/God – messiah in training) bought his brother a really big knife much to the fear of the group as his willingness to “Do the Deed” i.e. whittle any emergency spoons on request left many quaking in their boots and running for our ramshackle mess tent built and designed by Sam with his large knife and collapsed by mother nature and Luke’s shoddy gaffa tape work to smash Rachael’s head and sliced Ruth in half, only to be majestically resurrected and which is predicted to be demolished for bad weather conditions. Luke loves Tescos and his love of it sparked many fruitful conversations with Ruth concerning trips to the said supermarket and the products which might fit inside Henry (Ruth’s kayak), as Jeremy (Rachael’s boat) needed to be constantly pumped at each stop to prevent any scuppering. Jasper, Izzy’s boat, was very much loved in spite of his inexplicable weight gains and hindrances at transporting him up the seaweed infested slopes, thanks to Pete’s help at defeating the high tide mark the whole group managed to stay within the camp site limits rather than in open water.

Blog Entry

Written by: Drittunge
Members: Gabby, (Laura) Gribbs, Rose, Tasha, Katie, Laura, Callum and Alistair

If you don’t want to hear about us throwing ourselves down glaciers then “go put on a brew” because this is exactly what we did; backwards, forwards, head first and roly-poly, braking only with something that resembled a weapon (ice axe). Despite this, Tasha can still walk but she has difficulties getting to the toilet safely by creating rockfalls narrowly missing “Windy Alley” while her comrades sleep peacefully below.
When we say Windy Alley we are referring to our open-air camp next to the glacier where we Bivied (sleeping in sleeping bags under the “night” sky) for three nights while sporting sunglasses and suncream. We stayed in fluctuating temperatures from 30 degrees to minus 3 leaving us burnt, frozen and bitten from every angle, but we are still enjoying it!
Rose (along with 22 others) managed to celebrate her Dad’s birthday by climbing up to the highest ice point in Finnmark. It was a long way up but an even longer way down with crevasses opening up below our feet, which resembled Sibera’s answer to football boots. Katie managed to lead the rescue group as Rob trailed behind admiring the view leaving the rest of the rope team in the capable hands of its youngest member.
Gabby’s enjoying 3000 calories a day; no chance of her wasting away! Although if you saw the bizarre combinations - take peanut butter and pitta bread as an example - we are currently creating (with the help of Laura’s can-opening skills) you would think all the sunshine has gone to our heads. Alistair has been playing the role of tinkerer so that we can eat, despite our temperamental stoves’ best efforts by clearing them of soot.
Callum has been good at carrying things when the girls have been struggling, even if we do have to “work as a team” to get it over the heavy rocks.
Despite Gribbs taking up so much room in the tent and receiving several death threats, we are all still alive.

Tuesday, August 4

Blog Entry

Written by: Marky Mark and the Funky Bunch
Members: James O, James L, David, Rowan, Emma, Alex, Nahom, Will, Lucy

Expertly guided by Mark Hickman, the Funky Bunch stormed their way up Arctic Nusvag’s most foreboding glacier in a day. On the way to this remarkable triumph, “the Bunch” as they have become known in elite mountaineering circles bivied (slept outside) on three consecutive nights enduring the extreme wind and Arctic conditions. Respite from this was provided by the phenomenon referred to as “spooning.” When not scaling glaciers of daunting height the Bunch have been regaled and comforted by Fire Leader Mark’s stories of times past, most notably being detained for espionage activities in Communist Russia. Glacial activities have kept most of the group cold and moist for the duration of the expedition, notable exceptions being Rowan who to her delight has managed to stay hot and sweaty throughout. David, on the other hand has found to his embarrassment the adverse effects of the arctic chill. Hopefully this problem and his intimate chafing will be short-lived when he dons his “tell no lies” dry suit in the coming weeks. Will “Willy” Gibson’s outstanding architectural achievements notably a wall and a leaky dam have survived his ration pack induced gale force winds. Lucy’s androgynous dress sense has endeared her to “the Bunch”, her Y-fronts a special highlight. Emma’s impeccable climbing has been in evidence and the admiration of her Fire the whole week. James “choir boy” Leadill’s harmless persona displayed at the briefing weekend has metamorphisised into Nahom’s “Fruits of intensive labour”. Nahom’s selfless nocturnal habits have been in evidence on many an occasion on this trip, his “one down one to go” Black Man Sandwich policy has typified his efforts to raise the moral tone of the fire. Alex “washboard abs” Bennion’s pink BJ Borg boxers have aroused James’ considerable interest on several occasions, we’ll keep you updated… James “gag and bag” Oldham’s majestic and much speculated trips to the little boys Room have been nothing but “leg” or legend to me and you!


The other Fires will send blog entries later in the week.

WEEK TWO:

Overview:
Initial training complete, both the mountaineering and kayaking Fires set off for a one week expedition.

The mountaineers completed their move up to ABC and then pushed higher onto the moraine to bivy at 500m, just metres away from the ice of the glacial snout. Ice axe drills were carried out along with an introduction to crampon work and moving on a glacier. The entire team made it’s way up to the highest summit in Finnmark – a huge white snow dome on top of the ice cap – and, after three nights bivying, returned to base camp.

The kayakers set of on what was to be a 80 kilometre journey exploring the fjords east of our base camp area. This took them to remote areas and secluded beaches with wild camps. As company on this voyage of discovery they had numerous porpoise, otter, and the magnificent White Tailed Sea Eagle – an indicator of the remoteness of the environment and the riches of the Sea. Riches that would supplement the YE’s staple diet of ‘rat pack’. Science played a major part of the Sea kayak journey with over twenty drop camera stations completed recording sea bed data and rock pool biodiversity on behalf of the Norwegian Environment institute.

A real ‘mixed bag’ of weather meant that they experienced cold, wet, sunny and warm paddling conditions – each a challenge in its own right but in a land where it never gets dark (at least in the summer months!!) each took to this challenge in their own way and at their own pace.
Blog Entry:
Written by: The BBMT Crew (The Big Blue Mess Tent Crew)
Members: Emma, Clem, Lizzy, Holly, Danielle, James, Trou and Nathan

After a very early start at the airport, we met the people we’d be spending the next month of our lives with. Two planes, two coach journeys, a ferry and a hike later, we were pitched at base camp, thoroughly enjoying the twenty four hour daylight as we desperately tried to sleep. At some point the next morning, after a “brief” chat from Mike, we split into our separate fires, ours quickly to become the Army Tent, due to the military majority of our group. We quickly discovered our roles in the group, mainly Danielle, or as we fondly know her, “Action Barbie” who can gut fish, fell trees, cook gorgeous dinners of corned beef with beans, all with a full face of make-up. Lizzy, Guide Extraordinaire, not only showing herself to be the group’s pyromaniac, is also fantastic when it comes to fixing and building tents and things with little more than gaffa tape and a smile. James and Nathan ‘s speciality is doing exactly what they are told by the girls, and never fail to be impressed by the weather, even though it’s stayed the same for two weeks now. Trou, a ‘true’ gentleman, the true-bear of the group; will help out whenever and wherever he’s needed, and makes it look like you’re the one doing him a favour. He also caught fresh fish for us all week, but didn’t relish keeping them between his legs in the boat. Emma has kept everyone entertained in troubled waters with renditions of most Disney musicals. It really had to be heard to be believed, but it kept a smile on everyone’s face throughout the trip. Clem , the baby of the group, not only keeps a smile on everyones face throughout the day (after she gets her morning hug) has grown up, and is really finding her independence on this trip. And finally, Holly has won the hearts of everyone here, one in particular, but has also shown her tough and rugged side (Grrr!!). We have been so lucky with the weather, no-one can believe they will be going home with a tan, and I think we have all discovered a secret love for kayaking, some more secret than others. Particular high points of the week were, Emma diving into the water between kayaks during training, the Clem’s birthday midnight paddle to see the sun. Kayaking a full day of 15km, the daily Mars Bar and the stunning weather in the fjords. James falling asleep to wake up covered by the tide, and of course, the inspirational leadership of Mike and Geli. Get a brew on!

Week One Overview

WEEK ONE:

Overview:
The expedition started with a flight to Oslo followed by another to Alta, then a coach to Okfjord, a boat across the fjord, minibus shuttles to the road-head and a walk to base camp. Needless to say, day one was a long one.

After a day setting up base camp, four “Fires” (BSES terminology for groups) were set up and two each started the kayaking and mountaineering phases.

Mountaineers walked up the valley to an Advanced Base Camp (ABC) where they worked on rope skills to prepare for going up the glacier. Kayakers spent time at the bottom of the fjord working on their paddling skills, including cap size drills!

Monday, August 3

Norway Comms Check

Quick word from the field:

All well, starting phase 2. Big Blog written, will be uploaded as soon as possible.